![]() ![]() He was able to find an existing hole in the firewall that he could use to route the hose, and wiring went directly to the fuse block behind the dash. We recommend planning out the installation, making sure of any mounting location issues you might encounter, and drilling any holes necessary for wiring or for the hose itself if mounted inside, like Stephen did. The vacuum hose connects from the pump directly to the brake vacuum booster with a supplied hose, and anyone with minimal electrical abilities can perform the install. It's a clean, simple install and now the booster isn't battling the cam for vacuum.Įlectrical connections are simple: a ground and power wire directly to a battery source, and an ignition source for the the relay and switch. The wiring came through the same grommet and was connected to the battery.īottom: First test on the vacuum pump resulted in about 21-inches of vacuum in just seconds. Top: The hose was run through the firewall, and mounted directly to the booster. Brake pedal effort is again minimal, and full braking effect has returned now that the pump has been installed. We drove the car around the block and the pump fired up and reached vacuum within seconds, and was off again. With many vacuum pumps, the noise they make would make you want to mount it as far away as possible, but after installing the pump Stephen felt that what little noise it made is completely livable inside the cabin. Wiring the kit was simple enough, with all the wiring and connectors, as well as the relay and switch, included with the vacuum pump kit. These were taken with a sound meter app on my phone, so by no means are they scientific but they at least illustrate how much quieter one is compared to the other.īecause this pump is so quiet – and because the engine compartment is packed with big-block power – Stephen chose to mount his vacuum pump inside the car, up under the dashboard. Our new rotary vane pump measures approximately 56 decibels. MC: Our old pump and most any piston driven pump measures approximately 85 decibels. SM: Do you have sound readings (decibels) to compare to? ![]() If it does run for an extended period of time, or the pump cycles on and off without using the brakes, that is a sure sign of a vacuum leak. MC: When not on the brakes, the pump should be dead quiet and not running. ![]() SM: While driving and not using the brakes, should the pump cycle on and off regularly? We haven’t heard anyone say yet that it doesn’t work. We have had people tap into the system to run various vacuum functions in the vehicle such as vacuum headlights and heater doors. MC: It could be used in other applications although we have not tried it. SM: Should this pump only be used for brake boosters, or are there other applications? ![]() Master Power’s electric vacuum pump is a small, efficient pump that creates the vacuum needed to add that boost to a power brake system, leaving the camshaft to pull all the air it needs. But the drawback to the bigger cam is that your combustion chamber has first dibs on all that air being sucked in, and anything external to that chamber, such as your brake vacuum booster, plays second fiddle to the requirements of your thumpstick.īigger cams steal that incoming charge of air and that leaves your power brakes lacking the boost needed from the engine’s vacuum levels. This combination equates to more power, as well as a bigger smile on the nut behind the wheel. One of the best ways to pull in more air and fuel is to open the valve further, and that means a bigger cam. On the next stroke of the of the crankshaft, the piston compresses the air and fuel so the ignition can explode that mixture and send it out through the opening exhaust valve. Your engine is a large air pump, and to pump that air it needs to pull it in through the intake valves where the piston can suck in as much air as it can with the fuel mixture. ![]()
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